if you wish to build your FaceBox
exactly like ours, you will need to
order a mini breadboard for
holding the 10 mm LED.
While Nick instructs you to
use adhesive tape for attaching
the breadboard and motor to the
red box, we opted for metal
screw and nut fasteners. Size #2-
56 hardware should work for
holding everything in place
Granted, you could just
mount the various parts on the
red box and call your project
done, but where’s the fun in
that? When decorating your
FaceBox, try to add a little flair to
the facial features.
Give it a personality that will
match the little beeps and tones
that will ultimately be “spoken”
from the attached mini speaker
(Figure 2). We also used this
decorating step for adding a
couple of slots that act as hidden
wire channels — keeping all of
the wiring inside the box instead
(Figures 3 and 4).
Once you’ve laid out the
“face” for your FaceBox, the final
challenge is installing the motor
inside. Unlike the “stock” Redbox
Robot, only one motor and one
wheel are used for FaceBox. This
motor is mounted inside one of
the end flaps of the red box
(Figure 5). Two screws will hold
it in place, but its shaft must
extend beyond the box’s outside.
This mounting requirement
means that some cardboard
must be removed from inside the
Furthermore, you must
ensure that the motor’s
shaft rotates freely and
easily outside of the box.
Likewise, you must have
ample clearance for the
shaft to hold the wheel securely in
place. You don’t want a tipsy social
Wires and Wires and
When all of the hardware has
Figure 2. Use screw and nut fasteners for
attaching everything to the red box.
Figure 1. A pretty face begins with a large breadboard.
Figure 4. Hidden slots and channels help to keep the
Figure 3. The wiring “rat’s nest” is kept to
the inside of the box.
Figure 5. Preparing the box’s end
flap for installing the motor.
SERVO 02.2017 45