altitude, heading, speed, etc., is
displayed. There are several
units available; some contain
their own independent sensors;
others interface with specific
flight controllers. I would really
like to add this functionality to
my setup, but that’s an entirely
separate article or maybe even
a full-on build.
Installing the Teleporter kit
is a relatively simple process.
We need to mount the camera
on the airframe, attach it to the
power system, and install or
configure the display or
goggles we will be using to
view the feed.
Mounting the camera
could be done in a variety of
ways, depending on your particular airframe. The easiest
mounting method is to use a strip of double-stick tape on
two clean and slightly roughened surfaces. I used this
mounting method for my first tests of the system and it
worked pretty well. After a couple of flights, the camera
was dangling when I landed, however. Luckily, the wires
stayed clear of the propellers, but I knew I wanted a
more permanent solution anyway. There are a few
approaches one could take here. Go to the hardware
store and find some small preformed “L” brackets to use;
buy a strip of metal flat stock and bend your own custom
bracket in a vice; or 3D print a custom mount. Given that
I just got my 3D printer back up and running after some
upgrades, I decided to take that route.
I whipped up a little bracket in OnShape that
consisted of a “U” shaped bracket and a camera
mounting bracket that fit snugly inside it. The camera is a
snap fit into the bracket. The bracket’s rotation is locked by
two 4-40 clamping screws. The STL files are available on
Thingiverse ( www.thingiverse.com/thing:1903250) and
in the supplementary material at the article link.
I printed with a rather coarse (0.27 mm) layer height
and about 30% infill using PLA. Instead of depending on
the screw threads in a plastic part holding up, I decided
that a threaded bushing would be more effective. There are
some wonderful heat-set bushings available from McMaster-Carr in many sizes.
I used my soldering iron to melt in a pair of the 4-40
sized bushings (Figure 6; P/N 93365A120), making sure
they did not protrude too far into the camera pocket and
prevent the camera from fitting inside the bracket.
After the bushings were in, I snapped the camera into
place and assembled the bracket. This bracket should be
relatively easy to mount on most airframes and allows you
to adjust the pan and tilt before tightening the hardware
After mounting the camera bracket on the airframe
(again with 4-40 hardware), I routed the cable and zip tied
the transmitter into place (Figure 8). The transmitter and
camera are then simply powered by plugging the balanced
charge lead of the flight battery or dedicated FPV battery
into the power regulator (Figure 9).
For testing, I used both the 4. 3” LM403 LCD FPV
monitor ( getfpv.com; item #4195) attached to my remote
transmitter and the Fat Shark Teleporter V5 goggles from
the kit ( getfpv.com; item #4484). The screen came with a
little bracket that mounts to the back of it and clamps onto
the handle of the RC transmitter (Figure 10).
The bracket is surprisingly solid, but I’m worried about
the screen’s mounting point (Figure 11). One small screw
seems like asking for something to shear off, but it hasn’t
SERVO 02.2017 51
Figure 8: I used zip ties to secure the transmitter
as I’ll probably be moving it between different
vehicles, and wanted an inexpensive and easy
Figure 7: Installing the camera mount is pretty straightforward
assuming there is a good place on your airframe. The ELEV- 8 and H-quad we built both have several mounting options.
Figure 6: While special tools are available to
install melt-in bushings, the chisel tipped
soldering iron does a good job. Just get
everything in line and gently press the bushing
into the plastic parts.