Figure 7). You can test each stepper motor, check the
stopping power of the limit switches, and select models
from the microSD card for printing.
Each of these actions is just a couple of menu screens
away from selection and execution.
The model I used for my test print was the same one
used in the instructional video: a small elephant statuette
(which is included on the iMakr-furnished microSD card).
After I had preheated the hot end, I inserted the filament
through the extruder motor into a Teflon™tube that is
connected to the X axis/hot-end carriage. I removed the
end of the Teflon tube that is plugged into the hot end and
physically pushed about three inches of filament out this
An Assembly Tip
One tip that will help make your final assembly a snap
is to label each cable with its destination. In other words,
add a small piece of masking tape with a descriptive label
for each stepper motor and limit switch (like the one
shown in Figure A). These labels should go on the
connector that will be attached to the PCB.
For example, after you plug the cable into the Y axis
stepper motor, add a piece of tape with “Y” labeled on it
to the other connector. When it comes time to plug the Y
axis stepper motor cable into the PCB, just look for the Y
label and plug it in.
Figure A. The Z axis limit switch. Label its connector for easy ID during final PCB assembly.
Figure 9. Always clean the printer’s nozzle! This is after 10 hours of runtime — just like brand new.
Figure 8. The end result. Yeah, it’s not perfect, but it’s not bad for a printer costing less than $100. Just a little trimming and you’ll be ready to impress your friends.
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