PHOTO 5. After reading this article, you
just created a VD6! Not quite, but these
fundamental techniques can take you
slowly but surely to a level of expertise
so you can create such a monster.
and repeat the process.
Now that you have the pieces
of fabric on top of each other, you
are just about done. Apply the layer
of peel-ply to complete the wet
layup process. However, if you seek
the better method of vacuum
bagging, add your perforated plastic
film, cotton batting, and get that
trash bag ready. Figure out how you
will have the vacuum line go inside
the trash bag layer, and place the
extra piece of cotton batting over
that line. This insures any extra resin
that makes it past the standard
cotton batting won’t go into your
vacuum line and gum up the works
of your pump; also make sure that
the hose isn’t sucked to the table
and has some space to suck up all
the air.
With all of that positioned,
carefully duct tape all sides of the
trash bag to the mold in the border
that isn’t covered with release, and
make sure you don’t allow creases
to form in the tape. The better that
tape is laid, the better chance of not
having air leaks. Proper sealing can
be one of the toughest parts of the
vacuum bagging process.
Once cured, it’s time to check
out your part. Remove the plastic
and other excess materials. In most
cases of flat molding, the part will
come right off without even needing
to melt the PVA with water. If for
some reason you do need help in
getting the part free from the mold,
remember to never use metal tools!
Always use wood or plastic wedges
to wedge under the corners and
work around the mold to get it free.
This prevents damaging the part or
the mold.
Now that you have your part,
you will want to carefully cut off the
excess fray. The single carbon
threads that can be resin
impregnated can turn into needles.
From extensive experience, I can tell
you carbon splinters hurt like hell.
Cutting is best done with a
band saw using a gulleted blade,
but with such a thin laminate you
should be able to cut with shears or
any blade.
With a new shiny part in hand,
you may want to go farther. As far
as secondary processes, shaping,
mold making (tooling), attachment
to metal substrates, etc., I simply
cannot cover that much material in
this article. If you would like more
information, I would be happy to
continue writing articles for SERVO
Magazine that cover these specifics
and tips that you can only learn with
experience, but I need your
questions and feedback to target
the information. Feel free to contact
me at Teamthinktank@gmail.com as
I am always available for comment.
Check future SERVO Magazines for
more articles from TTT! SV
C MBAT ZONE’S
GREATEST HITS
● by Kevin Berry
Pete Smith, of KitBots fame, sent in this one from the recent “Clash of the Bots” event. Pure Dead Brilliant,
whose blade was featured in the August ‘ 10 edition of Combat
Zone, took a bit of a beating at the “hands” of MH2. SV
32 SERVO 10.2010
