Version 3 SpindleBot
(bottom view).
robot. On this SpindleBot, I used a PIR motion sensor and
three CDS photoresistors. The outputs are configured to
drive two main drive servos, a small piezo speaker, an
optional pico servo for pen up/down, and a 74HC595 shift
register to control a set of eight LEDs for some cool lighting
effects. Most of these are optional, and you can use
whatever sensors you want when you build your own
version.
The top center of the CD case and the top center of
the Spindle were drilled out. This hole allows for a pen to
be placed in the center of the robot so it can draw while
moving. When drilling into plastic, you need to be very
careful not to crack it. To start, just use a small drill to make
a pilot hole. Any drill bit 1/8” or less will do. Then, follow
up with a Unibit or stepped drill to enlarge the hole. The
stepped drills are much less likely to damage the plastic. If
you try using a larger drill bit, it will more often than not
break the plastic instead of making a proper hole.
When using a 25 or 50 CD spindle, a small pico servo
can be added to raise/lower the pen. Since they are so
small and the pens are light, it can be attached to the top
cover of the CD spindle with double-sided tape. For a more
secure mounting, small aluminum angle brackets with
screws are an excellent option. An example program that I
wrote to test my robot turns the robot into an art bot. It
has been a popular demo whenever I have shown off
SpindleBots at local schools. I’ve also tried Scribbler 1 code
which worked with some minor modifications to the motor
control code and adjustments to pin assignments to match
my board.
Creating the Ultimate SpindleBot
The latest version of the SpindleBot is even more
refined. It uses one of the tall 100 CD spindles for its body.
The construction is exactly the same as the shorter
SpindleBot but has room for more levels of electronics and
batteries. The CDPCB boards can be stacked on standoffs to
Version 3
SpindleBot.
Version 3 SpindleBot
(side view).
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