of power out of the cannon that would cause pumpkin
carnage upon impact, and the first incarnation of our
chunker just wasn’t getting there. The worst damage we
could do to a hollowed out mini-pumpkin was to leave a
crack in the orange gourd’s wall. One thing that we noticed
during testing is that each shot did not deplete all of the
pressure in the chamber — activating the electric valve
would only result in a drop of about 20 PSI or so. This
meant that we were leaving a lot of pressure on the table.
There had to be a better way! Settling for low impact shots
would have been as cynical as that scrooge, Frank Cross
firing Eliot Loudermilk and giving out towels as Christmas
presents.
Another problem with the first version of the cannon
that hampered our initial testing was that one of the joints
sprung a leak. We were able to patch it by slathering on
PVC cement and pulling some pressure out of the chamber
to suck in the cement. However, it was just another
indicator that improvements could be made. We were
eventually able to splatter some pumpkins with our Mark II
chunker, but diving into that now would be jumping the
gun like putting up Christmas decorations the day after
Halloween.
It’s Beginning to Look a Lot
Like Chunk-mas
Leaping into design upgrades without looking at the
physics first would be like putting on the big red suit
without reading the Santa Clause. The core concept behind
a pneumatic cannon is really very simple: Compressed air is
stored in a chamber. When the valve at the opening of the
chamber opens, the compressed air expands and pushes
out the projectile. Our simplified model assumed that the
pressurized air in the chamber would flow seamlessly into
the barrel once the valve opened. That, however, didn’t
account for something that was seriously limiting the power
of our chunker: pressure drop over the valve.
The electric valve we used in the first incarnation of our
pneumatic cannon was an electric sprinkler valve. The tube
diameter was only one inch — already a big drop from the
four inch diameter tubing we used for the chamber and the
barrel. Only so much air can flow through the smaller
diameter tube. When that air reaches the wider tubing
used for the barrel, it expands to fill the larger volume,
losing some pressure in the process. Like the Grinch’s heart,
our valve tubing was at least two sizes too small.
The design of the electric sprinkler valve compounded
the problem. Electric sprinkler valves like the one we were
using employ a diaphragm valve design. In a diaphragm
valve, the path through the valve is opened and closed by a
diaphragm usually made of rubber or plastic. The
diaphragm is connected to a plunger that raises and lowers
the diaphragm over a weir. The weir is a partial wall that
minimizes the distance that the diaphragm has to travel to
open or close the flow path. Minimizing the required travel
of the diaphragm makes the design efficient from an
actuation point of view, but diaphragm valves are as miserly
with airflow as Ebenezer Scrooge.
There is a precedent for modifying sprinkler valves for
use in air cannons, but many of the suggested
modifications are focused on increasing the speed of the
SERVO 12.2015 55
Twin brothers hack whatever’s put in front of them, then tell you about it.
THE PRESSURE DROPPING ELECTRIC VALVE.
A SIMPLE SCHEMATIC OF A DIAPHRAGM VALVE.